Leggetevi cosa dicono, è mooolto interessante, mooolto diverso dagli angoli di Magneto e chambers, da tenere in considerazione per chi va in pista e monta assetti tosti!!!
949Racing's Miata set up tips
Disclaimer: Doing anything to your car as described on this page is dangerous, will kill you and maim everyone around you
THESE ARE NOT STOCK TIRE, SUSPENSION, STREET OR TIRE WEAR FRIENDLY SETTINGS!
Alignment
These are the maximum performance settings I use to set up a Miata to generate the best balance of turn in, steady state lateral grip, braking grip/stability and power application in competitive type driving environments The bias is towards steady state lateral grip as that is what makes a Miata fast more than the other facets of it's performance envelope.
These settings assume:
* Either factory sport package Bilsteins, Koni's or high performance aftermarket dampers
* At least a slight increase in static spring rate front and rear
* True high performance tires, not bargain all season rim protectors
* You are comfortable with potentially less high speed directional stability than the Mazda factory alignment settings may provide
Other important stuff
These settings work best with a torque sensing helical diff like the factory Torsen. Tighter 1 or 1.5 way clutch type diffs may require -1/16" total front toe to help the front turn in off throttle in autocross situations. Ideally you will change the front to rear spring rate and anti-roll bar differential (FRC) biased towards the front. The OE FRC is only slightly front biased but the lower front camber serves to keep the car more or less neutral. I have found that setting the front camber from equal to -4* more than the rear provide best grip and lowest lap times. Doing this on an otherwise stone stock Miata will result in an excessively loose, tail happy car so don't !
Testing
To maximize the performance you need to test, test, test. That means, same tires, same driver, same conditions, change on thing at a time. Record tire temps with a probe type pyrometer (no lasers!), lap times, tire wear patterns, tire pressures and most importantly, driver impressions immediately after run. There is no optimum alignment for every condition. The more you are trying to squeeze out of the car, the more you have to test, record adjust, repeat. Don't expect to be able copy these setting verbatim and have it turn out 100% perfect. That's why race teams have highly skilled full time engineers constantly tweaking the cars to milk more speed out of the car.
Most DOT R compound race tires will develop their peak steady state lateral (cornering) grip at camber, toe and pressure settings that won't necessarily show even tread temps or wear. Generally when temps are even you are very close. I usually shot for tire temps 10~15? hotter on the inside than the outside. Don't assume anything when reading tire temps or any other measurement. Drive it hard, pay attention to the car and experiment. Clocks don't lie.
Please don't ask me how your tires will wear because: A) I don't know. B) You shouldn't care if you are considering using these settings as a starting point. In practice, when the suspension is right, my race tires wear absolutely perfect, only need about 30psi hot on 8 or 9" wheels and the car is fast.
Miatas between 13 - 12" front ride height
Front camber: -2* (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: +3.75 to +4.25*
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -1.8*
Front total toe: 0
Miatas below 12.0"
Front camber: -2.8* (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: +2.75 to +3.5*
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -2.5*
Front total toe: 0
Miatas over 180whp or so can add +1/16" total toe in at the rear to attenuate corner exit power oversteer. If you can't get enough front camber, welcome to the club. ISC Racing offers a offset front upper Delrin bushings. I'm working on front lower offset Delrins that should be available by Summer 2008. The Super Pro offsets, while pretty and very well made, won't stay in place.
Per PIT, vedi che caster usano loro...
Fossi in te io farei una bella prova con sti angoli visto che monti un D2...
949Racing's Miata set up tips
Disclaimer: Doing anything to your car as described on this page is dangerous, will kill you and maim everyone around you
THESE ARE NOT STOCK TIRE, SUSPENSION, STREET OR TIRE WEAR FRIENDLY SETTINGS!
Alignment
These are the maximum performance settings I use to set up a Miata to generate the best balance of turn in, steady state lateral grip, braking grip/stability and power application in competitive type driving environments The bias is towards steady state lateral grip as that is what makes a Miata fast more than the other facets of it's performance envelope.
These settings assume:
* Either factory sport package Bilsteins, Koni's or high performance aftermarket dampers
* At least a slight increase in static spring rate front and rear
* True high performance tires, not bargain all season rim protectors
* You are comfortable with potentially less high speed directional stability than the Mazda factory alignment settings may provide
Other important stuff
These settings work best with a torque sensing helical diff like the factory Torsen. Tighter 1 or 1.5 way clutch type diffs may require -1/16" total front toe to help the front turn in off throttle in autocross situations. Ideally you will change the front to rear spring rate and anti-roll bar differential (FRC) biased towards the front. The OE FRC is only slightly front biased but the lower front camber serves to keep the car more or less neutral. I have found that setting the front camber from equal to -4* more than the rear provide best grip and lowest lap times. Doing this on an otherwise stone stock Miata will result in an excessively loose, tail happy car so don't !
Testing
To maximize the performance you need to test, test, test. That means, same tires, same driver, same conditions, change on thing at a time. Record tire temps with a probe type pyrometer (no lasers!), lap times, tire wear patterns, tire pressures and most importantly, driver impressions immediately after run. There is no optimum alignment for every condition. The more you are trying to squeeze out of the car, the more you have to test, record adjust, repeat. Don't expect to be able copy these setting verbatim and have it turn out 100% perfect. That's why race teams have highly skilled full time engineers constantly tweaking the cars to milk more speed out of the car.
Most DOT R compound race tires will develop their peak steady state lateral (cornering) grip at camber, toe and pressure settings that won't necessarily show even tread temps or wear. Generally when temps are even you are very close. I usually shot for tire temps 10~15? hotter on the inside than the outside. Don't assume anything when reading tire temps or any other measurement. Drive it hard, pay attention to the car and experiment. Clocks don't lie.
Please don't ask me how your tires will wear because: A) I don't know. B) You shouldn't care if you are considering using these settings as a starting point. In practice, when the suspension is right, my race tires wear absolutely perfect, only need about 30psi hot on 8 or 9" wheels and the car is fast.
Miatas between 13 - 12" front ride height
Front camber: -2* (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: +3.75 to +4.25*
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -1.8*
Front total toe: 0
Miatas below 12.0"
Front camber: -2.8* (or as close as you can get to it)
Caster: +2.75 to +3.5*
Front total toe: 0
Rear camber : -2.5*
Front total toe: 0
Miatas over 180whp or so can add +1/16" total toe in at the rear to attenuate corner exit power oversteer. If you can't get enough front camber, welcome to the club. ISC Racing offers a offset front upper Delrin bushings. I'm working on front lower offset Delrins that should be available by Summer 2008. The Super Pro offsets, while pretty and very well made, won't stay in place.
Per PIT, vedi che caster usano loro...
Fossi in te io farei una bella prova con sti angoli visto che monti un D2...
NA 1.8 '94 elan style
GAZ GOLD PRO 400/300, Sway FM, Powerflex, Rollbar handmade (prossimamente roll cage), Vuota, SedilE JKComposites, Anticipo 14°, Tubi freno treccia, Volante calice, Vari bozzi per la velocità e ruggine, RPF1...
Esistono solo due tipi di auto, rear wheel drive e wrong wheel drive.
Se non è indispensabile alla marcia, quasi sicuramente è peso inutile...
Meno stadi più autodromi. (cit.Costa)
Lorenzo
GAZ GOLD PRO 400/300, Sway FM, Powerflex, Rollbar handmade (prossimamente roll cage), Vuota, SedilE JKComposites, Anticipo 14°, Tubi freno treccia, Volante calice, Vari bozzi per la velocità e ruggine, RPF1...
Esistono solo due tipi di auto, rear wheel drive e wrong wheel drive.
Se non è indispensabile alla marcia, quasi sicuramente è peso inutile...
Meno stadi più autodromi. (cit.Costa)
Lorenzo
